Where Life Can Be A Long, Quiet River

Where Life Can Be A Long, Quiet River

The Sunday Age

Sunday November 28, 2004

Paul Edwards

First, slow food - now slow travel. Mallacoota has fishing, surf, and Sydney weather sans the rat race. By Paul Edwards.

WHY GO NOW?

The next few weeks often bring the year's best weather to this far-flung corner of the state. It can cut up rough, of course - ask the crews of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race who sail round nearby Gabo Island - but early summer is generally the start of a settled period. Victoria's dominant weather patterns derive from the west and south-west; here, they are often tempered by north-easterly influences, bringing down Sydney weather.

WHERE IS IT?

A long way - at 542 kilometres, almost as far as you can go in Victoria from Melbourne. Mildura takes the honours with 557 kilometres. There's only one practical way to go, on the Princes Highway East, through Gippsland.

You should reckon on a little over six hours from Melbourne, much of it on highway and freeway.

Convenient stopping places would be Yarragon, beyond Warragul, for coffee and either Bairnsdale or Lakes Entrance for a second rest.

In Bairnsdale, visit St Mary's church for its amazing frescoes of the Stations of the Cross. In Lakes, check out the new Lakes Entertainment Centre.

WHAT'S THERE?

Mallacoota is on the shore of its self-named inlet, formed by the drowned estuaries of the Genoa and Wallagaraugh Rivers. The inlet system is big, with two basins or lakes and many little bays and inlets. Most of the hinterland is part of the UNESCO-recognised Croajingalong National Park, covering nearly 90,000 hectares. No theme parks here - just wonderful beaches, a safe inlet, good hospitality and stunning surroundings.

WHAT'S TO DO?

You're pretty well on your own - there are very few commercial attractions down here. But think of the money you'll save on fun-fair rides, and instead you can be as one (or three or four) with nature and hit the beach or the bush tracks. The region is geared for water sports, with good surf fishing and excellent angling in the inlet. There are reportedly good catches of flathead, snapper, whiting, tailor, mulloway, bass, bream and salmon. There are safe beaches along the inlet and a good surf beach at Betka Road, patrolled in the holiday season.

The sheltered inlet is perfect for sailing, windsurfing and exploration by kayak, and there are three boat ramps and at least 10 jetties. There's an 18-hole golf course, plus tennis and lawn bowls.

BUSH TRAILS

There are many minor roads - mainly unsealed but in good condition - leading to points of interest. One of them is a World War II bunker where RAAF sur-veillance operatives were headquartered, looking out for an enemy that never got this far. Just inland, you're into serious mountain country - our version of the Alpes Maritimes - and you can drive and walk to Genoa Peak and waterfall for a panoramic view inland and out over the inlet and ocean. In the same region, look out for Maxwells rainforest, just over the NSW border. The Shipwreck Creek heath-land walk is a six-kilometre stroll from Mallacoota, taking in open country with a riot of wild flowers in early summer. There's a secluded bay with interesting rock pools.

GO TO WATER

If you don't want to haul your own boat all the way down, there are a number of hire and charter options. For skippered cruises, try Loch Ard (51580666), Porky Bess (51580109) and Gypsy Princess (51588291). Wilderness Ocean Charters (51580701) will take you out to Gabo Island and other blue-water destinations. Hire boats from Mallacoota Hire (51580704) and Buckland's Jetty (51580660).

I'M HUNGRY

If you're that way inclined, you can try to catch your own food fresh from the inlet or ocean; otherwise patronise the small number of restaurants, delis and supermarkets. Two well-regarded cafes are Croajin-galong cafe (51580098) and Cafe 54 (51580646). Tide Restaurant (51580100) is due to reopen around now and there are good bistros at the golf club (51580277) and the local pub (51580455). Locals speak well of the three-course set menu at the Gypsy Point Lodge (51588205).

I'M TIRED

There's a wide range of accommodation, from cara-van and camping parks through houseboats, holiday lodges, B&Bs and a few up-market apartments.

In no particular order: Mallacoota Foreshore Park (51580300), Shady Gully Caravan Park (51580362), Mallacoota Motor Inn (51580544), Silver Bream Motel (51580305), Log Cabin Units (51580233), Blue Waters Holiday Cottages (51580261), Mallacoota Court Units (51580508), Karbeethong Holiday Lodge (51580411), Ballinosollis Units (51580031), Mallacoota Houseboats (51580775).

More information: Mallacoota Information Shed (51580800) - an impressive former abalone packing shed with vivid murals by local artists Yolande and Julie.

Online: www.visitmallacoota.com.au

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